How To Check And Adjust Your Pressure Tank

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Many homeowners have a well that meets the entire household’s aquatic needs. But continuous starting and stopping can reduce the lifespan of your water pump. The pressure tank is an integral part of your home-owned water-supply system. With its immense storage capacity, it saves the water pump for short-cycling. Without a water tank, the pump can get overburdened and permanently fail. Let’s talk about how a pressure tank stores and supplies water to your faucets.

Working of water pressure tanks

The name pressure tank is self-explanatory. It suggests that a pressure tank uses compressed air to fulfill your aqueous requirements. In America, we calculate air pressure in PSI for household pressure tanks. A PSI – pound per square inch – corresponds to 6894.76 Pascal’s. This information is significant for the proper comprehension of water tanks. Your tank will accommodate water in the bottom and air above the surface.

An inlet allows water to get transferred from the pump to your pressure tank. This water will compress the air trapped inside the tank and continuously compresses it. The pump shuts down when the tank reaches maximum air pressure (50-60 PSI). When you open a faucet anywhere in your home, this compressed air will force water out of the tank. Air pressure keeps declining as you use water stored inside the tank. When it reaches minimum pressure (30-40 PSI), the pump starts filling the tank with water again.

Types of pressure tanks

There are different types of pressure tanks available in the market. Let professionals handle water well pressure tank troubleshooting complexities for you. All you need to know is how to check and adjust the pressure tank. And learn a little about its various categories as well:

  1. Bladder tanks: A bag called bladder holds the water. Water doesn’t touch the tank’s inner surface. It saves the tank for corrosion. If it’s a fixed bladder and gets ruptured, you have to replace the entire pressure tank.
  2. Diaphragm tanks: A flat and flexible rubber diaphragm separates the water from the air. As the diaphragm stretches, it moves upward and compresses the air. It eliminates water hammering noise.
  3. Air-on-water tanks: It doesn’t have a barrier to separate air from water. So, the compressed air can dissolve into the water after some time. If you own such a tank, you need to refill it with air to maintain pressure frequently.

Checking and adjusting the tank

Checking and adjusting the tank is necessary before its installation. This process comprises a few simple steps. Remember to turn your submersible well pump off before you change the water tank’s pressure. Follow these steps to ensure optimal performance by the pressure tank:

  1. Depressurize the system: If you’re checking and adjusting an existing pressure tank, be sure to cut power to the system. Then depressurize it by flipping the breaker and opening a faucet. Any faucet in your house will do the trick. You’ll know that tank got depressurized when water stops coming out of the tap. It’ll help you take an accurate pressure reading. When you depressurize the train, it’ll automatically drain itself.
  2. Record the tank’s pressure: You’ll need a pressure gauge to measure the tank’s internal pressure. A dial/digital gauge will display correct readings in a more eligible way. But you can also use a tire gauge. Find the tank’s air valve and use the indicator to record the pressure reading. You can find an air valve on the top of the tank or at the bottom (if it’s composite). It resembles the one you have on bicycle tires. There’s a cap covering that protects the air valve. Unscrew the cap, record the pressure reading, and then put the lid back on. If water comes out of the air valve, you probably need to replace the pressure tank.
  3. Adjust the tank’s pressure: Remember when we talked about maximum and minimum air pressure? Now, these values have names. The maximum (50-60 PSI) is the cut-off point. Meanwhile, the minimum (30-40 PSI) is the cut-on point. There should be a difference of 20 PSI between these two values. Your tank’s pressure needs to be 2 PSI less than the cut-on end. Ideally, people keep it at 28 PSI (because of a 30 PSI cut-on point). Use an air compressor to add more air pressure if it’s required. Recheck the pressure after a few minutes to make sure there’s no air leaking out of the tank.

Notes: Consequently, if the tank has more pressure, you need to let some air out. The tank’s internal pressure is sufficient if 2 PSI below the cut-on point of 30 PSI. If it’s not, you need to add/release some air to maintain the ideal pressure. If the air pressure needs some adjustment, don’t put the protective cap back on. The cut-on point is alternatively known as the cut-in point, and you shouldn’t increase than the cut-off point above than 60 PSI. This much pressure can damage the water well system. Home inspection services recommend putting a large tank in the basement, and a larger tank doesn’t let the pump collapse from overwork.

Conclusion

Water pressure tanks are an essential component in domestic water supply systems. They make sure that the water pump lasts long. Air compressed inside these tanks force the water out from the faucets. This air pressure is an essential factor in the working of these tanks. Therefore, you need to check and adjust this air pressure for the tank’s enhanced performance. The guidelines will help you receive the most excellent service by the pressure tanks. Water tanks also provide you a safe and massive supply of water. Their operation is smooth, silent, and hammering-free. Call professionals for pressure tank installation or to handle problems associated with the water supply system.

 

 

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